Header reference: “God’s own country” is the catchphrase of the Kerala state. A quick Google search informed me that it had been coined for tourism – too bad for the deep-rooted, traditional saying!

“Welcome to India.” told us the customs officer, after a proper interview about our motives for coming to India. Mine was conducted with a stern, suspicious tone, while Dimitri got asked if he was a “professional sportsman”. Little be said that Dimi loved this country from the start!

Welcome to Kochi, in the Kerala State, located on the South-West Indian coast. Here we speak Malayali, with English as a second official language. 35 Celsius degrees, felt like 40° because of the 80% humidity rate. The drive from the airport got us into the Indian spirit right away: 44km distance, 1h30 driving, in a chaotic, yet well-flowing traffic. Tuktuks create a third lane on a two-lane street when they feel like it, overtaking a car allows you to drive the wrong way for far too long according to our European standards. Dimitri and I smile at each other: “trust the process” is our new motto for this year!

Because of its coastal location and lush vegetation, Kerala was quickly recognized internationally for its spices and Kochi became a busy harbor. It also brought a surprising mixture of cultures, with the first Christian church in India, an old Jew neighborhood, and many other. Both our local guides, respectively Hindu and Muslim, told us that they celebrated Christmas with their Christian neighbours, who shared their good food and drinks – coexistence at its best. 🙂

Dimitri’s first reaction to Kochi? “I feel like being back to Guadeloupe [NLDR: French island located in the Caribbean].” The crushing heat, the beach front, the kids playing soccer on wasteland: you have it all. Beside the occasional tourist calling from the tuktuk drivers, life here is peaceful and we can feel that the city itself is not yet overwhelmed with tourists (shoutout to our delicious, local restaurant where the waiters barely spoke any word of English).

We could not stay in Fort Kochi, Kochi old town, without seeing a Kathakali show, a traditional Kerala acting and dancing performance dating back to ~1500. The all-male cast undergoes a 6-year training program, to be able to perform this art featuring their eyes, facial expressions, hands and overall body. The themes are mythological, with shows that can last up to 8 hours. Actors do not talk, but they use a complex sign language, doubled with odd screams (mostly for the vilains, if we got it right). I did not know eyebrows and cheeks could be that expressive!

Full of this cultural experience, we went looking for greenery the next day, with a boat visit through the backwaters. These interconnected water flows go through Kerala, linking the sea with the inlands lakes.

We witnessed the collection of the toddi, the local coconut alcohol directly extracted from the coconut tree. Our guide sold it to us like a local beer: after tasting, it is more an unusual mix between warm beer and cheap wine. Well worth the try, then!

New day, new discoveries: let’s follow Asad and his tuktuk into the back streets of Kochi.

I realize now that it is a challenge to write short, interesting articles about days full with novelty. Closing off now, while we are waiting for our bus to Madurai, in the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu!

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